Thursday, August 2, 2012

Day Four


Day Four



The phone rang at 3:30am.  I knew instantly that it was the call from Biscuit.  I was groggy from Sauvignon Blanc and lack of sleep but I dragged myself out of bed.  This was a test of manhood and I was not going to live with the shame of having slept through an opportunity to get on a lobster boat.  In particular I felt I would not be able to face our friend Gregg Peckham, who loves the "Deadliest Catch" show and would never forgive me if I stayed home.



I got dressed in a bunch of old clothes that Alan had salvaged from his attic--Alan and I are roughly the same size--6'4" or so.  I wore some old khakis, two layered polo shirts, a fisherman's sweater and a windbreaker.  Alan also provided me with some cut off wellingtons that he had salvaged from the island recycling center (he started the recycling center on the island and still volunteers there--prior to this anything that would sink was simply dumped in the ocean). 



Alan selflessly got up with me, made coffee and offered to drive me to the harbor to meet Biscuit and his crew.   We arrived at the harbor a little before four.  A couple of minutes later, a young bearded guy who was built like an NFL tight end showed up.  He introduced himself as Rocky, one of Biscuit's stern men.  He asked if I was the guy that was going out with them.  When I confirmed that I was he gave me the same laugh everyone else had given me the prior evening.



Rocky and I chatted for a few minutes before the others showed up.  I asked him what he did before becoming a lobster fisherman.  He told me he had taught mixed martial arts and was a professional cage fighter.  Yes, you heard me--I was fishing with a frigging professional cage fighter.  You can't make this stuff up.  On Matinicus, if they're not pirates, they're cage fighters.  For a professional cage fighter he seemed like a great guy (for example, he didn't slam my head against the lamppost and bite my ear off).

Dawn off Matinicus



Biscuit and his son Dillon showed up a few minutes later.  Biscuit is a very large man (maybe pushing 300 pounds) and cannot safely make it down the ladder from the pier into the dinghy.  The pier is built at a height to accommodate the twice-a-month ferry and therefore requires a 10 foot climb down a wet, barnacle-encrusted ladder to get into the boat.  Dillon therefore paddled the dinghy to the beach, picked up Biscuit and then we all rowed to his lobster boat, the Dillon James (named, of course, for Dillon).  (By the way, Biscuit may be overweight but he is not by any means out of shape--I watched him pick up the front of an ATV that probably weighed 750 pounds and move it three feet like it was a tricycle.)



We tied up the dinghy to the mooring, cast off and headed out of the harbor on the Dillon James.  The seas were a little rough and it was clear we were going to be rolling and bobbing quite a bit.  I am not particularly susceptible to sea sickness, but when I have been so afflicted it was on a deep sea fishing boat under exactly these conditions--big swells, boat often stationary or drifting, and the delightful aroma of a bait tank nearby.  I knew that having the rookie (me) retching over the gunwales would make everyone's day on the Dillon James (not to mention the snickering townspeople on Matinicus) and just crossed my fingers that my stomach would not betray me.

Biscuit at the Tiller



The Dillon James was approximately 40 feet long by my estimation.  It was powered by a big diesel engine--probably over 300 horsepower.  The aft fishing deck was approximately 8 by 12 and had enough room for the bait tank (filled with rancid, highly aromatic herring and various undesirable pieces of what looked to be codfish--fins, tails, etc.).  The wheel was on the starboard side and there was a power winch in reach of the helmsman.  The lobster traps were 2 by 4 by 2 wire mesh rectangles--modern versions of the charming old wooden traps that you see on the walls of cheesy seafood restaurants everywhere.



Biscuit sets his traps in a line.  I believe there are generally 5 traps on each buoy and there are several buoys in a row in a given area.  A lobsterman generally has a total of 400 to 800 traps and checks each trap every third day or so.  Sometimes he can't check his traps for several days because of weather and this leads to some 15 hour days on the water catching up.  I suspect that Biscuit has more than 800 traps.



The Maine coast is like a minefield for lobsters.  There are lobster traps everywhere.  I would guess that every lobster that ends up on your table has been caught at least 10 times before he ends up at the market.  The size of a "keeper" lobster is strictly regulated and fishermen keep a caliper gauge on board their boats to measure whether lobsters are legal.  It seemed to me that about 2/3 of the lobsters we caught were thrown back--either because they were too small, too big or were breeding females full of eggs.



Lobsters, having been caught in traps multiple times, apparently don't learn.  They have small brains that are wired only to find their next meal.  The lobstermen provide meals to them in the form of thousands of tons of herring bait every day.  The lobsters and the lobstermen have a symbiotic relationship until the lobster gets big enough, at which point it becomes a strictly one-way relationship in favor of the fisherman--a change of events that must come as a big shock to the lobsters.



Rocky and Dillon moved with an easy grace--hooking the buoy, setting the line in the winch, pulling up the trap, removing the lobsters, throwing the keepers into a bin and pitching the babies and the breeders back into the sea.  My job was to re-stuff the bait sacks with herring and other unmentionable stuff from the bait tank and band the claws of the lobsters we were keeping.

Rocky and Dillon at Work



The lobsters appeared to be seriously pissed off when pulled out of the trap.  They assumed a claws-ready defensive position and backed into a corner.  The challenge was to get ahold of the lobster before the lobster got ahold of your fingers.  You then had to get the rubber bands around their claws.  The rubber band goes on a spreader that stretches it to fit over the claws.  You then slide the stretched band over the claw and twist the spreader off to close the claw.



The only dangerous parts of the job were running the winch and throwing the traps back in.  The winch pulled the traps up and could probably take off a finger or two if you wrapped the line on the wrong way.  Throwing the traps back in was potentially more dangerous.  After the lobsters have been removed and the traps re-baited, Biscuit would accelerate the boat and the string of traps would be thrown overboard in sequence at his order.  The traps were generally in about 100 feet of water and if the line wrapped around your ankle on the way out of the boat, you would probably be dragged down 50 feet in frigid Maine water before you could disentangle yourself.  I'm not sure if Biscuit would have stopped for us in any case.



I had worked on the ore boats on the great lakes after high school for a summer and I was very familiar with the danger of loose lines, winches and going overboard.  I gave the traps and lines a wide berth and focused on stuffing bait sacks.



Biscuit dropped me off in Matinicus harbor at about 10:30 am.  We had fished for over 6 hours--about half their fishing day.  Biscuit gave me 7 lobsters as payment and asked me to drop off four additional lobsters for Eva and Paul.  I walked the half mile back to the cottage (Eva and Paul lived at the end of Alan and Peggy's drive) and delivered my bounty.



I was ready to go back to bed when I got home but Ann and Peggy insisted that I go for a bike ride around the island.  We rode past the one room school house (Peggy had done the fundraising and volunteer organizing for the school's nice playground), up to the church (which hosted visiting pastors of all religions), rode to the airport and watched their friend Morrie's wife take off on the grass air strip, visited Morrie's house (which had a door from Bob Dylan's house in Greenwich Village that Morrie had salvaged), walked through Morrie's beautiful gardens, rode to the West side of the island and visited another friend on a beautiful private cove, rode back and stopped at Eva's for some bread, then ran into two other neighbors before we could get home.  When we finally got back I was exhausted and climbed straight upstairs for a much needed nap.



That night we had Alan and Peggys friends Charlie and Margaret over for Biscuit's lobsters.  Charlie was a former school administrator from Connecticut and a charming guy.  Margret had a big personality and was tons of fun.  We ate lobsters, drank wine and generally made a big mess. 

More Lobsters



We were due to leave the following morning for the AMC lodge in northern Maine where we would meet my brother Fred and his wife Cindy.  We were scheduled to take Penobscot Air from the grass landing strip at the end of the island weather permitting.  Penobscot flies a single engine Cessna that flies in the mail.  This logistical plan was all the more exciting since this service had two plane crashes last summer--one in high winds that killed the pilot and another that crashed with Alan and Peggy's friend Eva on board (in that latter case all four survived the crash).  The weather looked marginal so we lined up George and the Robin as a backup in case they couldn't fly.


Airplane Recovery--Eva's Crash



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